Short answer: in Marrakech you need Darija for three places: the medina's alleys, the souks and the square of Jemaa el-Fna. Ask your way with fin …, 3afak? ("where is …, please?"), turn down unwanted help with la chokran, kan-3ref t-triq ("no thanks, I know the way"), ask prices with b ch7al hada? and ask before a photo with wach n9der n-sawwer? About twenty phrases, all below, cover a whole day in the old city.

Marrakech words you will hear first

Moroccans call the city mrrakch مراكش, and someone from Marrakech is a mrrakchi (a woman: mrrakchiya). These place words come up all the time:

Darija Arabic script Meaning
l-mdina المدينة the old walled city, the medina
jame3 l-fna جامع الفنا Jemaa el-Fna, the main square
l-koutoubiya الكتبية the Koutoubia mosque, the big landmark next to the square
s-souk السوق the market, the souk
derb درب a narrow alley in the medina
bab باب a gate (in the city walls), a door
riyad رياض a riad, a traditional house built around a courtyard, often a guesthouse today
l-mella7 الملاح the Mellah, the historic Jewish quarter

The gates of the medina carry names, such as Bab Doukkala or Bab Agnaou, and they make excellent meeting points. So does l-koutoubiya: its minaret is visible from far away, and every taxi driver knows it. If you arrive by taxi, our guide to petit taxi phrases will get you to the edge of the medina; cars cannot drive into most of it.

Finding your way in the medina

The medina is a maze, and getting a little lost is part of the visit. Ask shopkeepers rather than people who approach you: they stay where they are and know the street.

Darija Arabic script Meaning
fin jame3 l-fna, 3afak? فين جامع الفنا، عافاك؟ Where is Jemaa el-Fna, please?
mnin n-douz l-…? منين ندوز ل…؟ Which way do I go to …?
tlft تلفت I'm lost (literally "I got lost")
wach b3id? واش بعيد؟ Is it far?
sir nichan سير نيشان Go straight on
dour 3la limen / 3la liser دور على ليمن / على ليسر Turn right / left
9bel / men b3d قبل / من بعد before / after
7da حدا next to

A typical answer sounds like sir nichan, men b3d dour 3la limen ("go straight, then turn right"). Have the name of your riad and its derb written down or saved on your phone map: in the medina, people give directions by landmarks (a gate, a fountain, a mosque, a well-known shop) rather than by numbers.

Saying no to unofficial guides, politely

In the medina, people may offer to show you the way, take you to "the tannery" or tell you that a street is closed. Some are just helpful, some expect money at the end. The UK government's travel advice warns about people posing as official guides and says an official guide carries a badge. If you don't want help, a calm, friendly no in Darija works far better than ignoring someone.

Darija Arabic script Meaning
la chokran لا شكرا No thank you
la chokran, kan-3ref t-triq لا شكرا، كنعرف الطريق No thanks, I know the way
ma-m7taj-ch / ma-m7taja-ch ما محتاجش / ما محتاجاش I don't need it (man / woman)
safi, chokran صافي، شكرا That's fine, thanks (it ends the conversation)
khallini 3afak خليني عافاك Leave me alone, please

Keep walking as you say it, smile, and don't follow anyone you didn't choose. If you do want a guide, book an official one through your riad or hotel and agree on the price first.

In the souks

The souks start just north of Jemaa el-Fna. These are the things you will be offered most:

Darija Arabic script Meaning
zerbiya زربية a carpet, a rug
belgha بلغة a leather slipper (babouche)
tajin طاجين a tagine (the clay pot and the dish)
l-jeld الجلد leather
ras l-7anout راس الحانوت the Moroccan spice blend (literally "head of the shop")
zit argan زيت أرگان argan oil
l-3ettar العطار the spice and herb seller

And the phrases that go with them:

Darija Arabic script Meaning
ghir kan-chouf, chokran غير كانشوف، شكرا I'm just looking, thanks
b ch7al hada? / b ch7al hadi? بشحال هادا؟ / بشحال هادي؟ How much is this? (masculine / feminine item)
ghali bezzaf غالي بزاف That's too expensive
n9es chwiya 3afak نقص شوية عافاك Bring it down a little, please
3endek kbir / sghir? عندك كبير / صغير؟ Do you have a bigger / smaller one?

Use hada for a masculine item (tajin, zit) and hadi for a feminine one (zerbiya, belgha). Bargaining is normal for crafts in the souks, not for fixed-price food or a bottle of water. For the full conversation, from the first price to wakha, tfahemna ("OK, deal"), read our guide to bargaining in a Moroccan souk, and check the numbers and prices in Darija so the prices don't go past you.

At Jemaa el-Fna

UNESCO lists the cultural space of Jemaa el-Fna as intangible heritage of humanity: it is a gathering place for storytellers, musicians, Gnawa dancers, henna painters and food sellers. In the day you will find orange-juice stands and performers; in the evening, rows of food stalls fill the square.

Darija Arabic script Meaning
3asir l-limoun عصير الليمون orange juice (in Darija, limoun is the orange)
l-7rira الحريرة harira, the tomato and lentil soup
l-babbouch الببوش snails in a spiced broth, sold in bowls
tanjiya طنجية tanjia, Marrakech's slow-cooked meat dish
wach n9der n-sawwer? واش نقدر نصور؟ Can I take a photo?

Two habits matter here. First, ask before you photograph a performer or a stall, and expect to give a small tip if you do. Second, at the food stalls, check the price of a dish before you sit down, as you would anywhere: ch7al hada? pointing at a plate is enough. For café and restaurant Darija, from ordering to asking for the bill, see ordering food in Darija.

Limoun surprises many visitors: in Moroccan Darija it means the orange. If you really want a lemon, ask for l-7amed الحامض.

At your riad

Darija Arabic script Meaning
smiti …, 3endi réservation سميتي …، عندي ريزرفاسيون My name is …, I have a reservation
s-sarout الساروت the key
fin l-ftour? فين الفطور؟ Where is breakfast?
l-ma s-skhoun ma-kayn-ch الما السخون ماكاينش There's no hot water
s-skhana bezzaf! السخانة بزاف! It's so hot!

The last one is useful in summer, when Marrakech gets very hot in the afternoon. In the morning, your host will often greet you with sba7 l-khir ("good morning"); answer sba7 n-nour.

A real walk, from the riad to the square

You leave your riad in the morning and stop at a small shop.

You: Salam o3alikom. Fin jame3 l-fna, 3afak?

Shopkeeper: O3alikom salam. Sir nichan, men b3d dour 3la liser. Ghadi t-chouf l-koutoubiya. (Go straight, then turn left. You'll see the Koutoubia.)

You: Wach b3id?

Shopkeeper: La, 9rib. Khamsa d d-d9aye9. (No, it's close. Five minutes.)

You: Chokran bezzaf.

(A young man walks up beside you.)

Man: Mrehba! Fin ghadi? L-blassa msdouda daba, aji m3aya. (Welcome! Where are you going? The square is closed now, come with me.)

You: La chokran, kan-3ref t-triq.

Man: Ghir chwiya, n-werrik… (Just a little, I'll show you…)

You: Safi, chokran. (You keep walking.)

(At the square, at a juice stand.)

You: Ch7al 3asir l-limoun?

Seller: 3echra d d-drahem. (Ten dirhams.)

You: 3tini wa7ed, 3afak. (Give me one, please.)

A public square doesn't "close" in the middle of the morning: when you hear that, smile, say safi, chokran and carry on.

Practise

Say these in Darija:

  1. "Where is the Koutoubia, please?"
  2. "No thanks, I know the way."
  3. "How much is this carpet?"
  4. "Can I take a photo?"
  5. "An orange juice, please." (Give me one orange juice.)

Answers: 1. fin l-koutoubiya, 3afak? 2. la chokran, kan-3ref t-triq. 3. b ch7al had z-zerbiya? 4. wach n9der n-sawwer? 5. 3tini wa7ed 3asir l-limoun, 3afak.

Listen to the real pronunciation of 3, 7 and 9 with the free Darija audio lessons before you fly. And if you want every phrase for the medina, the souks and the road in one place, the Easy Darija A1-A2 book is built as a traveller's companion, with the grammar behind each phrase.

Keep reading

Sources and further reading